Mount Taillefer

October 3, 2015

2426m

Pemberton / Birkenhead Lake Area, BC

Mt. Taillefer is one of the peaks accessible from upper Phelix Creek about 1 hour drive north of Pemberton. This peak itself can be easily done as a day-trip from the logging road but Alex, Dean, Ben and myself did it in 2 days in combination with the other objectives nearby. Earlier in the day we’d already bagged Mt. Weinhold. And now with only about 1 hour’s daylight time we were hurrying up to get up Mt. Taillefer before sunset.

Scramble routes for Mt. Taillefer and Mt. Weinhold

Scramble routes for Mt. Taillefer and Mt. Weinhold. GPX DL

The E. Ridge looked like a “moderate scramble” with a bit route-finding here and there, and went exactly as predicted. There were a few trickier spots bypassible on the climber’s left side. We did so for a few and attacked head-on for another few. It didn’t take us long to arrive at the summit as we were basically bolting up the ridge for as fast as we could. We successfully beat the sunset time and looked like we even had a few extra minutes to hang around…

The N. Face of Mt. Taillefer

The N. Face of Mt. Taillefer

A view from the lower East shoulder

A view from the lower East shoulder

Looking onwards towards our objective

Looking onwards towards our objective

The upper E. Ridge

The upper E. Ridge

Alex marching up

Alex marching up

Summit Panorama from Mt. Taillefer. Click to view large size.

Summit Panorama from Mt. Taillefer. Click to view large size.

Mt. Truax

Mt. Truax

Whitecap Mountain

Whitecap Mountain

Mt. Seton

Mt. Seton

Prospector Peaks in the foreground

Prospector Peaks in the foreground

Mt. Sampson surely looks huge

Mt. Sampson surely looks huge

Mt. Merriott with Mt. Matier behind

Mt. Merriott with Mt. Matier behind

The triple summits of Birkenhead Peak

The triple summits of Birkenhead Peak

Another look at Whitecap Mountain and Bendor Range

Another look at Whitecap Mountain and Bendor Range

Mt. Weinhold, our previous objective in the foreground

Mt. Weinhold, our previous objective in the foreground

Me on the summit of Mt. Taillefer

Me on the summit of Mt. Taillefer

Our group shot on the summit. Photo by Alex

Our group shot on the summit. Photo by Alex

The shortest way to get back to camp was descending the S. Ridge. We had no beta about that route but based on earlier observation we figured it’d go just as the E. Ridge. So down we went. There’s one difficult rock band that Ben and I down-climbed head-on while Alex and Dean chose a line further to the down-climber’s right (which was not easy neither). After that it’s basically an easy stroll back (although the boulders did feel very tedious after a long day). Watching sunset high up on the ridge was surely a bonus with incredible vistas towards all directions.

Looking down south towards a subpeak of Taillefer

Looking down south towards a subpeak of Taillefer

Ben down-climbing the tricky cliff band

Ben down-climbing the tricky cliff band

Panorama from high on the S. Ridge. Click to view large size.

Panorama from high on the S. Ridge. Click to view large size.

Evening glow on Prospector Peaks (L, fg)

Evening glow on Prospector Peaks (L, fg)

Mt. Merriott

Mt. Merriott

A closer look at Prospector Peaks

A closer look at Prospector Peaks

Mt. Seton to the East

Mt. Seton to the East

I have to say peaks here look similar to the front range of the Rockies

I have to say peaks here look similar to the front range of the Rockies

Sunset over the horizon

Sunset over the horizon

The last bit of sunlight shone on our objective

The last bit of sunlight shone on our objective

Evening glow!

Evening glow!

A look towards Currie/Wedge direction. Black Tusk way in the distance on right

A look towards Currie/Wedge direction. Black Tusk way in the distance on right

Evening glow on Mt. Matier in the distance

Evening glow on Mt. Matier (center, bg) in the distance

Panorama at dusk. Click to view large size.

Panorama at dusk. Click to view large size.

Now it’s time for a well-deserved dinner. It didn’t take us long to fall asleep. Our objective for the following day was Prospector Peaks with possible extension to Standard Ridge/Peak, but after evaluating the time, distance and our motivation level we settled on Prospector Peaks only. That way we could sleep in a bit in the morning..