October 3, 2015
Pemberton / Birkenhead Lake Area, BC
Mt. Taillefer is one of the peaks accessible from upper Phelix Creek about 1 hour drive north of Pemberton. This peak itself can be easily done as a day-trip from the logging road but Alex, Dean, Ben and myself did it in 2 days in combination with the other objectives nearby. Earlier in the day we’d already bagged Mt. Weinhold. And now with only about 1 hour’s daylight time we were hurrying up to get up Mt. Taillefer before sunset.
The E. Ridge looked like a “moderate scramble” with a bit route-finding here and there, and went exactly as predicted. There were a few trickier spots bypassible on the climber’s left side. We did so for a few and attacked head-on for another few. It didn’t take us long to arrive at the summit as we were basically bolting up the ridge for as fast as we could. We successfully beat the sunset time and looked like we even had a few extra minutes to hang around…
The shortest way to get back to camp was descending the S. Ridge. We had no beta about that route but based on earlier observation we figured it’d go just as the E. Ridge. So down we went. There’s one difficult rock band that Ben and I down-climbed head-on while Alex and Dean chose a line further to the down-climber’s right (which was not easy neither). After that it’s basically an easy stroll back (although the boulders did feel very tedious after a long day). Watching sunset high up on the ridge was surely a bonus with incredible vistas towards all directions.
Now it’s time for a well-deserved dinner. It didn’t take us long to fall asleep. Our objective for the following day was Prospector Peaks with possible extension to Standard Ridge/Peak, but after evaluating the time, distance and our motivation level we settled on Prospector Peaks only. That way we could sleep in a bit in the morning..