Mount Guthrum

June 25, 2021


Salal Creek / Upper Lillooet FSR, BC

Mt. Guthrum is one of the handful summits easily accessible from Athelney Pass even though getting to Athelney Pass isn’t a simple task in its own. This is rather just a minor summit compared with the much-bigger Mt. Ethelweard and Icemaker Mountain and is better done combined with the taller neighbours to make a horseshoe traverse. That happened to be the case for Brayden and I on the 2nd day of our Athelney Pass trip.

Athelney Pass Group of peaks slam – GPX DL

From Icemaker/Guthrum col the ascent of Mt. Guthrum was nothing more complicated than a simple plod although the elevation gain was bigger than I thought. We plodded for quite a while and the post-holing was pretty terrible on shallow areas near the rocks. About halfway up we gave up on the snow and hopped onto the rocky ridge. We then scrambled on the ridge but had to traverse some easy snow near the very top.

Brayden approaching the easy slopes of Mt. Guthrum
Near the summit of Mt. Guthrum the ridge narrowed
Partial Summit Panorama from Mt. Guthrum. Click to view large size.
Partial Summit Panorama from Mt. Guthrum. Click to view large size.
The Lillooet Icefield giants on the horizon
Looking over “The Elephant” and “Red Sail Peak” in the foreground
The northern view into the remote Chilcotin areas
Looking back at Icemaker Mountain, our second objective
Mt. Ethelweard was our first objective in this trip
A zoomed-in view of Monmouth Mountain
Brayden on the summit of Mt. Guthrum
Me on the summit of Mt. Guthrum

Again we didn’t linger long on the summit because the views were somewhat similar to what we had just seen and the heat’s really taken a toll on us. For the descent we opted to stay relatively on the edge of the glacier and that involved traversing some steep-ish snow. We also took a few long glissades to ease things off and got down in no time. While traversing back to camp we stayed a little higher than on the way in and our round trip time was about 9 hours for the three peaks from camp to camp.

Descending Mt. Guthrum we opted to stay relatively close to the rocks
The heavily-crevassed glacier that drains from Icemaker Mountain
Here we took a long glissade as we got tired of side-hilling
Brayden now descending a depression zone on the glacier
Another photo of Brayden descending the glacier with Athelney Pass ahead
Another photo of Mt. Ethelweard and the glacier we skirted around on left
Our tracks down on Mt. Guthrum’s glacier
A cool tarn right at Athelney Pass with Ochre Mtn. behind
Brayden now traversing back towards our camp

We were pretty much on schedule so according to the plan we had to chill at camp for the entire afternoon riding out the heat wave. This turned out to be a miserable fest that in a few hours none of us managed to catch any sleep. At around 4 pm the “Midnight Crew” came by from a successful ascent of Mt. Ethelweard and another half an hour later we made a spontaneous decision to ascend Salal Peak and Ochre Mountain in the evening.

Matt, Ben, Mel and Elise passed us while we were chilling at camp
My tent baked under the 30+ degrees sun beams…