Valad Peak

July 24, 2013

3250m

Brazeau Icefield, AB

After summitting Mount Brazeau under perfect weather, Shaun, Clayton and I immediately focused on our second objective, namely Valad Peak. It’s the lowest among the three that we bagged, but it’s the most difficult. Well, if we didn’t mind doing some backtracking then it would be very simple, but we decided to do a direct traverse.

Brazeau to Valad to Henry MacLeod traverse route

Brazeau to Valad to Henry MacLeod traverse route

The ridge went easy initially until an obvious rock band that we had to skirt around on climber’s left side. This bit was exposed since a slip would send us down to the big bergschrund. We didn’t have good snow condition neither. The top layer was soft due to the intense heat, but immediately beneath it was ice.. It was a bit awkward but we managed to make through with no incidence. Then it was just a hike to the summit.

Shaun descending the only bit of snow on Brazeau's south face

Shaun descending the only bit of snow on Brazeau’s south face

Clayton at Brazeau/Valad col

Clayton at Brazeau/Valad col

Same as above

Staying on the edge of snow

This bit was awkward. Good job Shaun at knocking down the unstable snow blocks.

This bit was awkward. Good job Shaun at knocking down the unstable snow blocks.

Mount Warren

Mount Warren

Mount Brazeau

Mount Brazeau

Ready for the crux of our trip

Ready for the crux of our trip

Going up the snow beneath the rock band

Going up the snow beneath the rock band

This is the rock band. We cannot scramble up and over it...

This is the rock band. We cannot scramble up and over it…

Looking back towards Warren and Brazeau

Looking back towards Warren and Brazeau

Then it's a hike on the summit plateau

Then it’s a hike on the summit plateau

Henry MacLeod seen from the summit

Henry MacLeod seen from the summit

Warren and Brazeau from the summit of Valad Peak

Warren and Brazeau from the summit of Valad Peak

Coronet Mountain. I'm proud to have it bagged.

Coronet Mountain. I’m proud to have it bagged.

Poboktan started to look big again!

Poboktan started to look big again!

Sea of peaks. Too many names to describe.

Sea of peaks. Too many names to describe.

Mary Vaux, Llysfran, Unwin, and Charlton

Mary Vaux, Llysfran, Unwin, and Charlton

Me on the summit.

Me on the summit.

Due to the concern with warm temperature, we didn’t stay on its top but immediately started the traverse towards Mount Henry MacLeod.

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