July 24, 2013
Brazeau Icefield, AB
After summitting Mount Brazeau under perfect weather, Shaun, Clayton and I immediately focused on our second objective, namely Valad Peak. It’s the lowest among the three that we bagged, but it’s the most difficult. Well, if we didn’t mind doing some backtracking then it would be very simple, but we decided to do a direct traverse.
The ridge went easy initially until an obvious rock band that we had to skirt around on climber’s left side. This bit was exposed since a slip would send us down to the big bergschrund. We didn’t have good snow condition neither. The top layer was soft due to the intense heat, but immediately beneath it was ice.. It was a bit awkward but we managed to make through with no incidence. Then it was just a hike to the summit.
Due to the concern with warm temperature, we didn’t stay on its top but immediately started the traverse towards Mount Henry MacLeod.