Peggy Peak

April 25, 2018


Whistler / Garibaldi Provincial Park, BC

“Peggy Peak” is the unofficial name of the high point in the middle of Needles Glacier, Weart Glacier and Chaos Glacier on the long ridge halfway between Wedge Mountain and Mt. James Turner. This glaciated bump doesn’t offer much of mountaineering interest compared with the nearby classic climbs, but does offer some incredible views given its superb position. The standard route goes up the north flanks and is nothing more than a plod on snow and/or ice but the access requires a day from Wedgemount Lake trail over Wedge/Weart col. Alex and I ascended Mt. Neal and Eureka Mountain earlier in the day, took a nap in the afternoon, cooked some dinner and started up “Peggy Peak” hoping to watch sunset from its summit.

Mt. Neal to Ure Peak peak-bagging slam.

The ascent was actually a little bit more interesting than anticipated. It was still just a plod on snowshoes but the slope was both steeper and longer than appeared. The upper section was also pretty dramatic with a huge cornice/windscoop that we had to cross over and only to find out the “highpoint” we were aiming at wasn’t the true summit. The highest point lied on the far (south) end of a narrow ridge and thankfully to get there wasn’t difficult. The summit was not to our surprise, cold and windy but we managed to find a sheltered spot on the west side of the ridge. Mt. James Turner was totally on show today. We waited for over an hour for the sunset and the crazy views.

Alex plodding the foreshortened slope up Peggy Peak

Alex plodding up with Eureka Mtn. behind

The massif of Wedge Mountain

Passing by this cornice

Alex on a wind scoop scouting things out

Mt. Neal – our first objective in this trip

Me coming to the edge of this wind scoop with Needles Glacier behind

Alex traversing towards what we thought was the summit

This bump turned out to be a false summit

Alex on the false summit with Mt. James Turner behind

A full show of Mt. James Turner

Alex now plodding towards the true summit.

Me with Mt. James Turner behind. Photo by Alex R.

Mt. James Turner with Fingerpost Ridge in front

Me on the summit of Peggy Peak

Nivalis Mountain

Mt. Sir Richard is the big prize on the east side of McBride Range

Shutter Glacier with Quiver Peak and Shudder Mountain

Mt. Tantalus rises behind The Black Tusk

Partial Summit Panorama from Peggy Peak. Click to view large size.

Partial Summit Panorama from Peggy Peak. Click to view large size.

Another zoomed-in shot of Wedge Mountain

Quiver, Shudder and Tremor Mtn. on Spearhead Range

Another look at Mt. Sir Richard

Tantalus Range with the evening horizon

Sunset in between Wedge Mtn. and Mt. Weart

This is the northern horizon

Mt. James Turner catching evening glow

In the foreground is Gunsight Peak (In-SHUCK-ch Mountain)

Mt. Weart massif in evening colours

The last bit of sun rays on Mt. James Turner

Wedge Mountain and the sunset

A closer look at The Owls

Once the show’s over we leisurely went back across the summit ridge and then plunged down the north slopes a little bit differently than on the way up. The snow had already formed some crust suggesting a cold night ahead. The next day we would move camp, ascend Oasis Mountain and Mt. Moe.

Alex plodding down at dusk

Snowshoeing down the north slopes of Peggy Peak with Mt. Weart in front