Peggy Peak
April 25, 2018
2623m
Whistler / Garibaldi Provincial Park, BC
“Peggy Peak” is the unofficial name of the high point in the middle of Needles Glacier, Weart Glacier and Chaos Glacier on the long ridge halfway between Wedge Mountain and Mt. James Turner. This glaciated bump doesn’t offer much of mountaineering interest compared with the nearby classic climbs, but does offer some incredible views given its superb position. The standard route goes up the north flanks and is nothing more than a plod on snow and/or ice but the access requires a day from Wedgemount Lake trail over Wedge/Weart col. Alex and I ascended Mt. Neal and Eureka Mountain earlier in the day, took a nap in the afternoon, cooked some dinner and started up “Peggy Peak” hoping to watch sunset from its summit.
The ascent was actually a little bit more interesting than anticipated. It was still just a plod on snowshoes but the slope was both steeper and longer than appeared. The upper section was also pretty dramatic with a huge cornice/windscoop that we had to cross over and only to find out the “highpoint” we were aiming at wasn’t the true summit. The highest point lied on the far (south) end of a narrow ridge and thankfully to get there wasn’t difficult. The summit was not to our surprise, cold and windy but we managed to find a sheltered spot on the west side of the ridge. Mt. James Turner was totally on show today. We waited for over an hour for the sunset and the crazy views.
Once the show’s over we leisurely went back across the summit ridge and then plunged down the north slopes a little bit differently than on the way up. The snow had already formed some crust suggesting a cold night ahead. The next day we would move camp, ascend Oasis Mountain and Mt. Moe.