September 14, 2016
Squamish / Mamquam River Road, BC
“Dunkeld Peak” is an unofficial name of an insignificant summit immediately to the west of Meslilloet Mountain. The peak barely pokes above the treeline but it does have an impressive north face. It isn’t often ascended though and the only beta I could find on the Internet was Simon’s trip report on ClubTread. He approached it from the west side via Dunkeld Spur and to get it started a near-30 km driving on the rough Mamquam Main FSR was required. I figured since I’d be there anyway why not combining Dunkeld Peak with Meslilloet Mountain to make a single 2-day trip… The approach and return are all written in my Meslilloet Mountain’s trip report.
From the broad pass immediately underneath the N. Face of Dunkeld Peak I ditched all the unnecessary gears beside a big boulder. Carrying only food and water I made my way up an obvious ramp feature way towards climber’s left side. The left skyline ridge would offer an easier, albeit longer and more contrived route up this peak. I didn’t want to waste too much time here so once the terrain made sense I turned right and ascended straight up the steep slopes. The ground was loose at sections but only went at “Class 2”.
Once hitting the summit ridge I turned right and started to encounter short scrambling steps here and there. Some minor route-finding was also required and I had to say that it was fairly enjoyable. In short time I made to the summit and the true apex was actually on a big chunk of granite and required a few scrambling moves to get up.
The views were pretty kick-ass towards all directions but knowing I still had a lot of work to do on this day I had to keep moving. I thought about tagging the lower east summit too but decided against once making down to the col (mainly because of the time concern). Then down the loose north slopes it didn’t take me long to arrive back at the boulder fields. I spent some time repacking and then it’s time to move on towards my primary objective.
Overall this was a great little diversion from my main objective and I was very glad to have come up this way. From the map I couldn’t expect too much but the scrambling was enjoyable, the views were great and the area to the west of Dunkeld Peak offered some nice exploration with many lakes. I even managed to find a well-flagged trail which wasn’t marked on any map or sources. A big thank to whoever made it and I’m curious where it origins from…