Mount Pugh

June 15, 2023

2195m

Darrington / Mountain Loop Highway, WA

Mt. Pugh is one of the most popular objectives along Mountain Loop Highway due to a well-maintained trail, the fun “scramble” and the high reward-to-effort ratio. Nowadays a path is developed through most of the upper mountain and the scrambling is within the range of class 2. There might have a few 3rd class moves but nothing worth noting. The approach is somewhat long due to the endless switchbacks but the trail quality is excellent. The only drawback might actually be the road access as it’s slightly overgrown and there aren’t a lot of places to turn around and park at the trail-head. Matt, Vlad and I made the last minute decision to finally go for Mt. Pugh. It was actually not our primary objective but I didn’t like the damp conditions so I wanted something that involved no bushwhacking whatsoever.

We agreed to meet at the trail-head at 8:30 am in two separate vehicles. Matt would continue southwards for another P600m objective on the following day, whereas I needed to be back home by 8 pm for work on this same day. I made the calculation and figured the 8:30 am start would get me back in time, and that turned out to be the case, but barely. Vlad showed up in my home the night before by bus and slept on the floor, as he wouldn’t have a vehicle for the day. We then left White Rock at 5:20 am and got to the trail-head at 8:20 am. Matt was already there.

Mt. Pugh via standard scramble route. GPX DL

The weather was basically 100% overcast, contrary to what’s promised in the forecasts. Vlad was worrying but I assured the group that maybe we would get lucky to break through the clouds ceiling. I was never expecting a bluebird day based on the forecast and I actually anticipated a possible white-out summit, but if the ceiling is completely overcast then there’s a good chance it’s completely sunny above that. This peak is fairly high, at least for the west slopes of the Cascades so who knows. Matt and I made Vlad to go ahead to set a steady uphill pace. We took the first break somewhere above Lake Metam in the woods, and the second break at Stujack Pass. The switchbacks were indeed endless and seemingly unnecessary. The weather was completely cloudy and we actually went into the clouds from about 100 m below the pass. It was quite windy and cold at the pass, but I was still hoping to ascend above the clouds.

Vlad setting a nice and steady trail pace

Vlad, me and Twig plodding up the typical trail

Finally coming out of the trees after a million switchbacks

Twig with the steep grunt to Stujack Pass behind

Nearing the pass we entered the cloud layer

Twig leading us to the cold and windy Stujack Pass

Based on the latest trip reports that we found on AllTrails and peakbagger.com I decided to bring an ice axe and crampons. It did not sound like the patch of snow would disappear in a few days and it sure did not. There’s actually a fairly large snow slope to ascend/traverse and the slope angle was at least 35 degrees with a not-so-great run-out. With the foot steps we all ascended without the traction devices, but on the descent I used the crampons and ice axe for added security. Had I worn the mountaineering boots I would definitely not need the crampons but I opted to wear trail-runners on this day, which are never great on snow. We then followed Matt’s lead traversing across a long stretch of narrow-ish ridge with several more snow slopes to cross, and that brought us to the base of the summit scramble. We were able to stay mostly on a path throughout the entire scrambling section, so this peak is definitely popular. The hardest scrambling was at the bottom of the col/notch. I definitely did a few 3rd class moves, but I never looked hard for easier options. Higher up I sensed the clouds thinning, so bolted up. I broke through the clouds layer at about 30 m under the summit, turning a miserable white-out summit into a spectacular and memorable one.

The narrow-ish ridge traverse. It was like this for a long while

Matt in the “notch” studying the summit scramble route ahead

Route-finding in the white-out. We mostly had a path to follow.

Starting to see the sun rays above the clouds

Twig with the sun behind. I sped things up at this point…

The moment that I broke above the clouds

Looking back at the rugged ridge crest that we bypassed

Twig on the final 30-m slog to the summit

Summit Panorama from Mt. Pugh. Click to view large size.

Sloan Peak dominating the skyline to the south

Matt grunting to the summit above the sea of clouds

Matt on the true summit boulder of Mt. Pugh

Me on the true summit boulder of Mt. Pugh

Another view of Glacier Peak. Vlad and I ascended it in July 2017

Twig loves playing with sticks… Twig never needs to rest…

White Chuck Mtn. poking to the north – bagged in August 2022

Our group shot on the summit of Mt. Pugh

Matt decided to run down this mountain with Twig after taking some pictures whereas Vlad and I opted to stay one hour on the summit to fully soak in the experience. We drove out in two vehicles so it’s all fine. I again, let Vlad to go ahead setting the pace and I just followed behind. The trail-runners were giving me problems on the snow crossings and I took one spill on a slope that’s actually quite flat. I managed to stop sliding but I immediately decided to properly don crampons for the big slope lower down. With crampons I was able to actually enjoy that slope, plunging most of the way down. I was decently fast on the transitions so I didn’t make Vlad to wait for much. The rest of the descent was long and boring. We took our time and eventually finished in 7 hours of round trip. I was too tired to drive us home but I also didn’t have enough time to properly take a nap, so Vlad did about half of the drive while I napped on the passenger seat. The border crossing was mostly fluent and I eventually got back at 7:10 pm with just enough time for dinner and shower before showing up at work. Overall this is a highly recommended objective.