Mount McDougall

September 8, 2012


Kananaskis – Highway 40, AB

Mt. McDougall is the only officially named peak among the 6 in “The Big Traverse”. It’s a well documented trip covered in Andrew Nugara’s More Scrambles book. Though not as impressive nor high as the nearby Old Baldy Mountain, its summit offers equal quality views. There’re numerous routes up this mountain. The traverse from Old Baldy is a moderate scramble while the traverse from “Volcano Peak” is a difficult scramble. The traverse from “Volcano Peak” looks easy but involves a couple tricky downclimbs. Folks have attempted that route in winter but most of them had to turn around.

The Big Traverse scramble route link-up

The Big Traverse scramble route link-up

After taking a lengthy break at the summit of Old Baldy Mountain, Neil, Tyler and I decided to continue the traverse to complete the mission. Getting to Mt. McDougall was not easy scrambling neither. We tried to follow the ridge down, but immediately we were blocked by a nasty and exposed down-climb. I tried to give it a go but the holds were very loose. We backtracked for 20 m and traversed to the scree/rubble on skier’s right, and slogged down to the col. Then we had to regain all of the elevation loss because Mt. McDougall is only marginally lower than Old Baldy.


Ridge-walk. Summit is actually the left bump


Looking back at Old Baldy Mountain


Mount McDougall


Partial Summit Panorama


Partial Summit Panorama


Looking N. over Old Baldy. Nakiska Resort on left.


Mount Baldy and Midnight Peak on left. Tiara Peak on right.


Moose Mountain in the far distance at center. Mount Bryant just to the right.


Fisher Peak. I didn’t get any view from its top…


The register


Tyler and Neil on the 5th summit of our day!


Volcano Peak, our last objective.

We took another lengthy break on the 5th summit of this day and discussed a lot about our summer adventures. Eventually we decided to descend. Don’t forget to grab Volcano Peak at the end of the day.

  1. Alex says:

    How long did it take to do all of them?

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s