Eureka Mountain

April 25, 2018


Whistler / Garibaldi Provincial Park, BC

Eureka Mtn. is a rather small, but pointy summit in the heart of the glaciers and icefields behind Wedge Mountain not far from Whistler. The peak is probably better known for its NW Couloir that offers steep snow climbing and steep skiing but the couloir doesn’t go to the summit. There had been very limited information about the summit routes but I was pretty sure the south ridge (class 3) would be the easiest option. The area behind Wedge Mtn. is better approached from Wedgemount Glacier and the ideal time for Eureka Mtn. is late spring or early summer when the south ridge has dried out but there’s still enough snow to cover the crevasses on these glaciers. Alex and I camped at Eureka/Peggy col, made a long plod to Mt. Neal and got back to camp at around 1 pm.

Mt. Neal to Ure Peak peak-bagging slam.

We rested for about an hour and then decided to scramble up Eureka Mtn. in the afternoon rather than waiting for the morning. From camp we had to lose a bit of elevation to the base of ridge. We then traversed around to the south-west side and snowshoed up the lower flanks until we ran out of snow. The scrambling on the south ridge was mostly class 2 but a little bit airy in places. We also had to be careful about cornices but the snow had generally melted back enough that staying entirely on rock was not a difficult task. We made to the summit in under 1 hour from camp a. I descended a bit of ways down the NE Ridge to scout things out for future parties. The conclusion was that the NE Ridge from Eureka/Oasis col would also work but there’s some steep and exposed snow near the summit.

Me heading for Eureka Mtn. Photo by Alex R.

The east face of Eureka Mtn. with the south ridge on left skyline

A view of Wedge Mtn. and Lesser Wedge Mtn.

Gaining the south ridge now, looking east

Alex plodding up the lower portion of the south ridge

Fun scrambling ahead on south ridge of Eureka Mtn.

Great view of Mt. Weart, The Owls and Mt. Moe

Me traversing the upper south ridge towards the summit. Photo by Alex R.

Me on the last few steps. Photo by Alex R.

Summit Panorama from Eureka Mountain. Click to view large size.

This is looking over an unnamed peak towards Lillooet River Valley

The west face of Mt. Neal, our objective earlier in the day

The south aspect of Oasis Mountain

The north face of Mt. James Turner

Joffre Peak and Mt. Matier on the skyline

The Owls and Mt. Moe

Quiver Peak, Shudder Mtn. and Tremor Mtn. on the Spearhead Range

A closer look at Mt. Weart

Me on the summit of Eureka Mountain

After taking enough photos we leisurely reversed our tracks back across the south ridge and then down to camp. We opted to take a short nap and then go up Peggy Peak at sunset for better views.

Alex heading down the upper south ridge of Eureka Mtn.

A closer look at Alex on the south ridge with Peggy Peak behind

Me heading down. Photo by Alex R.

Another photo of me enjoying the fun ridge traverse.

Alex scrambling on a steeper step.

Alex scrambling with Mt. Weart behind

More about the south ridge scramble

The lower ridge was pretty mellow as you can see here.

Back to snowshoeing now.

Our camp at Eureka/Peggy col with Wedge Mtn. behind