July 11, 2014
Kananaskis – Exshaw / Bow Valley, AB
Together with Door Jamb Mountain, Loder Peak is one of the minor “bumps” on the long ridge extending from Goat Mountain to Highway 1A. It’s a “peak” only because of the official status. Earlier in this year I’d done Door Jamb Mountain in January. On that day it was very snowy and the summit was in a white-out so I didn’t continue to Loder Peak. I didn’t really care at that time since I knew I’d do Goat Mountain Traverse at some point anyway. And yes, Loder Peak was done as part of the Goat Mountain Traverse in this past week, on the last day of our 3-day intense climbing trip. All the highlights of this trip was illustrated in my Goat Mountain’s trip report, and this trip report only focuses on the part from Loder Peak to Highway 1A (in other words, the scramble route of Loder Peak).
From Loder/Unnamed col it’s obvious that we couldn’t tackle Loder directly, so we traversed on a good trail/path to the right side before veering left aiming for the summit. The view was less interesting given what we’d just done in this day, so after a quick break we decided to keep descending. It’s been a hot day so we wanted to be off the sun baked ridge as quickly as possible.
The traverse to Door Jamb Mountain went uneventful but the descent from Door Jamb Mountain was a bit tougher than expected. After successfully reaching its summit in winter I thought it’s gonna be a walk in dry condition, but apparently I forgot the route-finding factor. At a couple spots we didn’t pick the easiest line so had to scramble down some slabs, but other than that it’s mostly a hike, though a very steep hike… It felt like a long way to eventually get down.
For those of you interested in Door Jamb Mountain and Loder Peak, I’d suggest doing them in shoulder season, or winter if you’re experienced in winter scrambling. In a hot summer day it’s not gonna be very pleasant, and for experienced scramblers this is a boring route that lacks technical challenge and views.