Deserted N1

July 27, 2020


Squamish / Elaho River Valley, BC

“Deserted N1” is the sub-summit 1 km to the north of “Deserted Peak”, which is a very remote peak on the Elaho-Jervis divide and is probably climbed less than a handful times in history. The col separating the north summit to the main peak is about 100 meters deep and the main peak is a technical climb from the col. The south side of the main peak is actually a scramble, but the access of the south ridge did not work for our traverse route. This was the last day of the 10-day traverse from Clendinning Range towards Elaho-Jervis divide among Alex, Vlad and myself. None of us had researched about Deserted Peak to expect it being a technical climb. In the end after seeing the north ridge we turned on the cell reception and checked and it’s indeed technical, so we called it on the north summit.

The section from Loquilts Peak to Deserted N1.

Earlier in the day we just came down from Outrigger Peak and near the Outrigger/Deserted col we entered some complicated bushy terrain. We dealt with a healthy batch of bushwhacking and route-finding on granite slabs and steps. Near the very bottom of the col we were forced to descend further towards down-climber’s right and were really confused as where to go next. I was optimistic about our location and led us back up left on an obvious ledge which successfully led us bypassing what seemed like a 5th class step on the connecting ridge. From where we rejoined the ridge we still had to climb a 4th class bushy stretch and then we found some snow to melt for water. We took an hour’s break there regathering strength. The day had been miserable in the heat and our pace was very slow.

Entering the bush now. We had to find our way down into the unknown

A cool lake just under Outrigger/Deserted col

Alex lowering himself down a bushy step..

Mt. Pearkes and its east face

Vlad scrambling up the typical coastal terrain… Very unpleasant

Alex scrambling up a 4th class bushy step

Vlad concentrating on the scrambling

More slabs and bush.

Another view of the lake under Outrigger/Deserted col

We finally found an accessible tarn to get some water

Eventually we had to resume the ascent so we shouldered the heavy packs and carried on. There was still some difficulties to get onto Deserted Peak proper with more boulder hoping and bushwhacking. We got onto a leftward trending treed ledge/ridge and followed it a long ways due climber’s left to get onto the huge NW Face. From there onward Vlad took a dry ridge while Alex and I strapped crampons on and went for a long plod on 35-degree snow. It felt never-ending but at this point I was mentally and physically done and just wanted to turn on the auto pilot mode. In this case the snow definitely felt easier to deal with. Vlad was at least 10 minutes faster and we regrouped at about 50 m under the summit looking at the imposing north ridge of the main summit. We discussed for a bit and opted out. We then slogged the final 50 m to the north summit and called the pilot there.

Me scrambling up. Photo by Alex R.

Vlad bushwhacking. Yes there’s more bushwhacking…

We passed by this cool tarn on Deserted Peak

Taking a well-deserved break once out out the bush

Looking back at what’s basically just an outlier of Outrigger Peak

Me merging onto snow. Photo by Alex R.

Alex plodding up the snowy NW Face of Deserted N1

Alex higher up on the NW Face

The summit was finally in sight..

Alex kept plodding up. We were very beat now

We were depressed to see the true summit…

Looking south towards Ashlu Mountain.

The higher, south summit from the north summit

Summit Panorama from Deserted N1. Click to view large size.

Mt. Pollock and Mt. Ralph where we started the traverse 10 days ago

Blanca Peak in the foreground

Outrigger Peak in foreground with peaks on Clendinning Range behind

Can’t stop taking photos of Mt. Albert

Mt. Tinniswood pokes behind Mt. John Clarke

A closer look at Ashlu Mountain with Limelight Peak in front

A zoomed-in view of Ponor Peak

Me on the summit of Deserted N1

Deserted Peak true summit and Jervis Inlet

Having some dessert on Deserted…

Our group shot on the summit of Deserted N1

Vlad taking in the views of Deserted Lake and Abandoned Peak

We had about 1 hour’s time to reflect before the pick-up time. The views were incredibly good from this location but none of us wanted to spend an extra night because of the uncertainty in weather, so we were happy to fly home. The flight from Deserted Peak back to Squamish Airport was the last highlight of this trip. We flew directly over the Ashlu-Elaho Divide on a bluebird day and I took tens of beta photos for future trips.

The chopper came to pick us up. That’s the end..

The north glacier of Ponor Peak

The north face of Ashlu Mountain

Flying above Limelight Creek

Flying past Amicus Mountain

Looking down into Elaho River Valley from above the divide

Some very fractured glacier on Ashlu-Elaho Divide

Mt. Cayley with Pyroclastic Peak and Vulcan’s Thumb

Buck Mountain in foreground with Garibaldi skyline behind