Deserted N1
July 27, 2020
2166m
Squamish / Elaho River Valley, BC
“Deserted N1” is the sub-summit 1 km to the north of “Deserted Peak”, which is a very remote peak on the Elaho-Jervis divide and is probably climbed less than a handful times in history. The col separating the north summit to the main peak is about 100 meters deep and the main peak is a technical climb from the col. The south side of the main peak is actually a scramble, but the access of the south ridge did not work for our traverse route. This was the last day of the 10-day traverse from Clendinning Range towards Elaho-Jervis divide among Alex, Vlad and myself. None of us had researched about Deserted Peak to expect it being a technical climb. In the end after seeing the north ridge we turned on the cell reception and checked bivouac.com and it’s indeed technical, so we called it on the north summit.
Earlier in the day we just came down from Outrigger Peak and near the Outrigger/Deserted col we entered some complicated bushy terrain. We dealt with a healthy batch of bushwhacking and route-finding on granite slabs and steps. Near the very bottom of the col we were forced to descend further towards down-climber’s right and were really confused as where to go next. I was optimistic about our location and led us back up left on an obvious ledge which successfully led us bypassing what seemed like a 5th class step on the connecting ridge. From where we rejoined the ridge we still had to climb a 4th class bushy stretch and then we found some snow to melt for water. We took an hour’s break there regathering strength. The day had been miserable in the heat and our pace was very slow.
Eventually we had to resume the ascent so we shouldered the heavy packs and carried on. There was still some difficulties to get onto Deserted Peak proper with more boulder hoping and bushwhacking. We got onto a leftward trending treed ledge/ridge and followed it a long ways due climber’s left to get onto the huge NW Face. From there onward Vlad took a dry ridge while Alex and I strapped crampons on and went for a long plod on 35-degree snow. It felt never-ending but at this point I was mentally and physically done and just wanted to turn on the auto pilot mode. In this case the snow definitely felt easier to deal with. Vlad was at least 10 minutes faster and we regrouped at about 50 m under the summit looking at the imposing north ridge of the main summit. We discussed for a bit and opted out. We then slogged the final 50 m to the north summit and called the pilot there.
We had about 1 hour’s time to reflect before the pick-up time. The views were incredibly good from this location but none of us wanted to spend an extra night because of the uncertainty in weather, so we were happy to fly home. The flight from Deserted Peak back to Squamish Airport was the last highlight of this trip. We flew directly over the Ashlu-Elaho Divide on a bluebird day and I took tens of beta photos for future trips.