Mount Tisiphone

April 25, 2026

3021m

Lillooet Icefield, BC

Mt. Tisiphone is a massive glaciated peak in the heart of Lillooet Icefield separating the Lillooet, Toba and Bishop drainages. It’s not the highest in the vicinity but boasts over 1000 m prominence making it one of the more important objectives in the region from peak-bagging perspective. There was however, hardly any “beta” especially for winter/spring ascents, which was quite surprising given that at least a few ski mountaineering parties would come to the vicinity each year. We quickly understood the reason as this was not a simple “add-on”. Francis managed to dig out several paragraphs from first or second ascents over 50 years ago (summer time), and Seb dug out the aerial pictures from John Scurlock’s websites. I estimated the summit attack would be a somewhat challenging fair from the most logical aspects (S/E) but none of the source would give us a clear image of what exactly we would be experiencing. As a result I made us to bring steel crampons and two ice tools each, and we also had two ropes in case things became technical.